Ich habe mich innerlich bereits darauf eingestellt, dass es nicht einfach werden wird, mein Visum für Russland zu bekommen. Diverse Reisende klagten über die russischen Regularien: Demnach muss ein Visum für Russland im Heimatland beantragt werden. Sinnlos, ich will doch durch Russland nach Deutschland zurück! Ein Visum für Russland wird außerhalb Deutschlands nur ausgestellt, wenn man sich längerfristig im Ausland aufhält. Die russischen Behörden berufen sich darauf, dass die deutschen Behörden das auch so machen würden.
Ein bisschen Hoffnung habe ich: Die Angestellten in der Konsularabteilung sind auch nur Menschen. Vielleicht werden sie für mich eine Ausnahme machen. Vereinzelt berichten Reisende, dass der Konsul ein Auge zudrückt. Die Botschaft in Hongkong soll mit einer hohen Wahrscheinlichkeit das erforderliche Visum ausstellen. Dahin zu fahren habe ich jedoch nicht vor. Ich bin in Guangzhou, relativ weit im Süden Chinas, und habe einen Termin bei einer vom russischen Konsulat bestellten Agentur. Nach 10 Minuten intensivem Prüfen meiner Unterlagen stellt die junge Angestellte fest, dass ich bei ihr kein Visum beantragen kann. Der Konsul hat ihr vorgegeben, nur den Staatsbürgern Visa auszustellen, die eine Aufenthaltsgenehmigung für China für mehr als 90 Tage haben. Ein Transitvisum könne ich stattdessen beantragen, meint sie. Mit einem Transitvisum hätte ich 10 Tage Zeit, durch Russland zu reisen. Im Prinzip wäre das machbar. Durch Russland durchrauschen wollte ich jedoch eigentlich nicht. Und: Die Bearbeitungsdauer betrage eine Woche. Kosten: ca. 120 EUR. Ok, es gibt zumindest eine Möglichkeit nach Russland zu kommen – auch wenn sie nicht optimal ist. Die Dame meint, für meinen speziellen Visawunsch solle ich mich direkt an den Konsul wenden.
Ich kämpfe mich durch den strömenden Regen Guangzhous und finde glücklicherweise recht schnell das Konsulat. Ich trete in den Schalterraum, grüße den auf seinem Bürostuhl rumhängenden, ungepflegten russischen Angestellten. Er erwidert nichts. Ich frage, ob ich bei ihm ein Touristenvisum beantragen könne. Er sagt einfach nur „No“. Vielen Dank für die umfangreiche Antwort. Ich bohre nach und kitzle aus ihm heraus, dass ich nur in Deutschland ein Touristenvisum bekommen kann. Ich möchte wissen, ob ich ein Transitvisum beantragen kann. Er nickt. Ein Lichtblick. Und wie lange ist das gültig? „Three days“, meint er. Ich wundere mich, warum es nicht 10 Tage sind und frage, ob das auch für Reisen mit dem Zug gelte, denn die 3-Tage-Visa werden meines Wissens nur für Transits beim Fliegen genehmigt. Er beharrt auf seinen 3 Tagen. Mehr ist ihm nicht zu entlocken. Also: Das Transitvisum ist doch keine Alternative.
Weil ich auf dem Landweg zurück nach Deutschland will, gehe ich gedanklich eine Alternativroute unter Umgehung von Russland durch: China, Kasachstan, Usbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran, Türkei. Dann bräuchte ich jedoch drei Visa – auch nicht besser.
Ich gebe die Hoffnung für ein russisches Visum nicht auf und starte einen neuen Versuch in Hanoi, Vietnam (während meines zweiten Vietnambesuchs). Die junge, aber resolute Schalterbeamte prüft meine Unterlagen, raubt mir aber nach wenigen Minuten aus den gleichen Gründen meine Hoffnung auf ein Touristenvisum. Immerhin spricht sie mit mir und empfiehlt mir – da ich alle Unterlagen für ein Touristenvisum habe – mein Visum für Vietnam (!) zu verlängern. Interessant, aber ich rechne nicht damit, dass die vietnamesischen Behörden dieser Verlängerung innerhalb von wenigen Tagen zustimmen. Ich würde dadurch nur unnötig in Hanoi festsitzen. Alternativ könne sie mir ein Transitvisum ausstellen. Höre ich richtig? Transitvisum? Für einen Aufenthalt bis zu 10 Tage, meint sie. Ich lasse mir das durch den Kopf gehen. Auf der Türschwelle der Botschaft fällt mir ein: Es gibt Transitvisa zur doppelten Einreise – so eins hatte ich bereits 2013 bei meinem letzten Russlandbesuch. Ich könnte meine Route so legen, dass ich kurz in Kasachstan einreise – fast ohne Umweg. Und damit hätte ich zweimal 10 Tage Aufenthaltsgenehmigung für Russland!
Glücklicherweise hat eine vietnamesische Familie vor der Botschaft ein kleines Outdoor-Büro mit Wifi und Drucker eingerichet. Ich buche die als Nachweis für die Ein- und Ausreise erforderlichen Zugfahrkarten. Um 12 Uhr schließt die Botschaft. Als ich mein letztes Ticket ausdrucke ist kurz vor zwölf. Ich hechte zur Tür der Konsularabteilung. Gerade kommt jemand raus. Die Tür fällt in Schloss – und lässt sich nicht mehr öffnen. Das russische Personal macht überpünktlich Feierabend. Immerhin nimmt die Dame den Hörer des Telefons ab, sagt aber deutlich, ich solle morgen wiederkommen. Super, einen Tag verloren. Ich ärgere mich: über das Personal, das, wenn es in einer privatwirtschaftlichen Firma angestellt wäre, wegen des nicht dienstleistungsorientierten Handelns längst gefeuert wäre. Immerhin lege ich 80 USD auf den Tisch – nur für das Visum, sonstige Aufwände nicht eingerechnet. Da erwarte ich eine gewisse Dienstleistungsorientierung. Und ich ärgere mich über Russlands Wie-du-mir-so-ich-dir-Politik. Nach diesen Querelen ist mir die Lust nach Russland zu reisen fast vergangen. Mir bleibt nichts anderes übrig als am nächsten Tag mit meinen kompletten Unterlagen wiederzukommen.
Ganz so einfach macht es mir die Angestellte auch beim zweiten Anlauf nicht. Sie glaubt mir meine Route nicht. Für diese Reisezeiten müsse ich nun doch ein Touristenvisum beantragen. Ich buche daher meine Züge um. Dieses Mal passt es. Allerdings gefällt ihr nun mein Visumantrag nicht. Sie möchte auch wissen, wo ich mich in Kasachstan aufhalte. Ich ändere meinen Visumantrag – und reiche frohen Mutes um 11.35 Uhr meine Unterlagen durch den Schlitz im Schalter. Sie ist zufrieden, stellt meine Quittung aus und sagt, ich solle ich drei Tagen wiederkommen. Tatsächlich: Am Ende der Woche halte ich meinen Reisepass mit meinem Visum in den Händen. Was für ein Aufwand – nur um in ein Land einreisen zu dürfen!
Manzhouli ist die letzte Stadt in China, ca. 5 Kilometer vor der russischen Grenze. Auf der Karte ist die Stadt nur ein kleiner Böbbel inmitten der weiten Grassteppe. Als ich in Manzhouli aus dem Zug trete bin ich überrascht – anstatt kleiner Holzhäuser und staubiger, unbefestigter Straßen erwarten mich Hochhäuser mit Türmchen, riesige Boulevards, die nachts noch imposanter wirken, weil sie festlich angestrahlt werden. Chinesischer Gigantismus eben. Doch wie in China fühle ich mich nicht mehr. Zu den chinesischen Schriftzeichen gesellen sich zahlreiche Leuchtreklamen auf Kyrillisch. Die Innenstadt scheint überwiegend aus Souvenirläden zu bestehen, die Matryushkas, Felle und sonstigen Krimskrams anbieten. An den Gesichtern der Passanten stelle ich fest, dass die Stadtverwaltung zweigleisig fährt: Zum einen zielt sie auf die Chinesen ab, die in den entlegenen Zipfel Chinas kommen, um einen Blick über den Grenzzaun nach Russland zu werfen und anschließend den abstrusen Matryushkapark mit der weltweit größten Matryushka besuchen. Andererseits locken sie die Russen an, die Autozubehör, Spielzeug und Elektronik Made in China mitnehmen.
Einen Tag habe ich eingeplant, um von Manzhouli in China nach Zabaikalsk in Russland, der Stadt auf der anderen Seite des Grenzstreifens, rüberzukommen. Genug, für gerade mal 7 Kilometer. Doch die Zeit schmilzt dahin: Am Tor zum chinesischen Kontrollgebäude angekommen, wird mir deutlich gemacht, dass ich zu Fuß die Grenze nicht passieren darf. Da alle Vehikel, die die Grenze passieren, voll sind, muss ich zurück in die Stadt und von dort Zug oder Bus nehmen. Für den Zug, der nachmittags fährt (und den ich zunächst nicht nehmen wollte, weil mir anfangs die nachmittägliche Abfahrt zu spät war) bekomme ich jetzt keine Tickets mehr. Den Busbahnhof finde ich nicht gleich, und als ich ihn finde gibt es keine Tickets mehr. Verwirrung stiftet die Schalterdame, die mir mitteilt, dass ich meinen angepeilten russischen Zug von Zabaikalsk nach Chita nicht bekommen würde. Die Zeitverschiebungen machen es komplex: Der Zug von Zabaikalsk fährt nach Moskauzeit (+6 Stunden auf meine lokale Zeit), in Zabaikalsk gilt jedoch die gleiche Zeit wie in dem östlich von mir gelegenen Tokyo (-1 Stunde). Hinzu kommt: Die Grenzkontrollen sind unberechenbar – 5 Stunden dauere es.
Schließlich bekomme ich doch noch einen Sitzplatz. In meinem Bus sind fast nur Russen. Ein sonderbares Gefühl: Von (sibirischer) Kälte gezeichnete Gesichter – nach Chinesen, Vietnamesen und anderen südostasiatischen Nationalitäten, die dem Gesichtsausdruck nach scheinbar keiner Fliege was zu Leide tun würden, ist das für mich eine große Umstellung. Wir nähern uns der Grenze und durchlaufen die chinesische Immigration. Bei einem jungen Russen, der jedoch nicht in meinem Bus mitreist, stimmt etwas mit den Dokumenten nicht. Er rastet bei der Kontrolle aus. Alle drehen sich beschämt um.
Unser Busschaffner passt auf, dass er uns Fahrgäste alle beisammen hält. Nach erfolgter Kontrolle steigen wir wieder in den Bus ein und passieren den eigentlichen Grenzstreifen. Auf der russischen Seite muss der Bus für die Immigration und den Zoll komplett entladen werden. Riesige Taschen werden aus dem Bus gezogen, eine Oma schiebt vier Reifen vor sich her. Aus den sich zunächst fremden Personen im Bus bildet sich eine Gemeinschaft – das Eis bricht. Am Schalter wird einander vorgelassen – ich als einziger „richtiger“ Ausländer werde wie ein rohes Ei behandelt.
Die russische Immigration-Grenzbeamte durchblättert mehrfach (mit einem Lächeln) meinen Reisepass, ruft jemanden an, bestaunt meine Visa: „Pakistan? India? Iran?“ Sie wiederholt nochmal – ruft eine weitere Kollegin zur Seite. Durch ihre freundliche Art bin ich mir sicher, dass meine Einreise nach Russland nicht an diesen Visa scheitern wird. Russischer Einreisestempel in den Pass. Alles gut. Beim Zoll werde ich wieder von den Mitreisenden vorgelassen. Viel Gepäck habe ich nicht, zu prüfen gibt es daher kaum was. Bestaunt wird nochmal mein Reisepass. Mit einem freundlichen Lächeln reicht die junge Zollbeamte mir meinen Reisepass und sagt mit russischem Akzent: „Auf Wiedersehen“ – genau so, wie man es sich von einer jungen Russin vorstellt. Von wegen sibirische Kälte. Auf einmal nehme ich die warmen Herzen der Menschen, die mich umgeben, wahr. Meinen Zug in Zabaikalsk erreiche ich ohne Probleme – es reicht sogar noch für Pelmeni im Bahnhofsrestaurant.
Auf der Fahrt von Zabaikalsk nach Chita – eine Fahrt über Nacht – bekomme ich noch eine weitere Portion russischer Wärme. Ich freunde mich mit Ela und Alex an, einem Pärchen aus Krasnojarsk an, die ebenfalls in China waren. Äußerst zielstrebig arbeiten sie auf den Abschluss ihres Medizinstudiums hin – wohlwissend, dass ihnen ihr Beruf nicht mehr als 300 EUR monatlich auf das Konto spülen wird. Wir kommen aus dem Quasseln nicht mehr heraus und verbringen auch in Chita den Vormittag miteinander. Spätestens jetzt tut es mir ausgesprochen leid, dass in den Köpfen vieler Menschen auf der Welt das Bild von „den Russen“ verankert ist. „Die Russen“, die alle nur dopen, um Höchstleistungen zu erbringen; die sich bei Fußballmeisterschaften durch die Gegend prügeln, die sinnlose Kriege anfangen und zivile Flugzeuge abschießen; die Russen, die sich im Urlaub in Thailand, in der Türkei, usw. sehr auffällig verhalten. Schade, dass dieses Verhalten Weniger auf alle abfärbt. Zugegeben, auch ich tappe manchmal in die Falle und pauschalisiere.
Meine Tickets für die Weiterfahrt sind bereits gebucht, länger kann ich leider nicht in Chita bleiben. Obwohl ich Alex und Ela keine 24 Stunden kenne, fällt uns der Abschied in Chita schwer.
Im Zug in das ca. 9 Stunden entfernte Ulan-Ude begebe ich mich in die Obhut einer Familie, bestehend aus der Babushka (Großmutter) und ihren beiden Enkelinnen. Die beiden Mädels sind zunächst etwas schüchtern, doch die Babushka fordert die Mädels auf ihre zackige Art – wie russische Babushkas eben sind – auf, mich dies und das zu fragen. Auch wenn wir uns auf Englisch weitestgehend verstehen können, packe ich meinen russischen Wortschatz mit ein paar Schlüsselwörtern aus. Mir fällt auf, wie einfach es ist, sich auch bei Dingen zu verständigen, bei denen wir weder in Englisch noch in Russisch die exakten Wörter kennen: Wir können das, was wir meinen mit anderen Wörtern oder mit Körperbewegungen umschreiben – das ging in China nicht ganz so einfach.
Dann passiert das, worauf ich mich schon seit Wochen gefreut habe: Die Babushka packt ihre Tomaten aus. Große, rote Tomaten. Tomaten, die tatsächlich das Sonnenlicht gesehen haben und für das Rotwerden keinen Chemiecocktail verabreicht bekommen haben. Und Gurken – allesamt vom Dedushka (Großvater) im heimischen Garten großgezogen. Das Gemüse wird aufgeschnitten, der Salzstreuer herumgereicht, dazu Butterbrote geschmiert und anschließend mit Salami belegt. Hallo Paradies! Am Zugfenster ziehen die bewaldeten Berge Ostsibiriens vorbei, die Wiesen blühen – alles scheint viel grüner zu sein. Ein Fluss mäandert vor sich hin. Scheinbar unberührte Natur – eine tolle Abwechslung zu der Landschaft Chinas, die ständig – auch in entlegenen Gebieten – von Highways, Eisenbahnneubaustrecken oder Geisterstädten zerschnitten wird. Hier im Osten Russlands sind Dörfer noch richtige Dörfer und Städte noch richtige Städte mit einer lebendigen Innenstadt.
Doch auch Russland hat sich verändert. Russland scheint moderner geworden zu sein – im Vergleich zu meinem ersten Russlandaufenthalt 2011. Vieles hat einen neuen, hellen Farbanstrich bekommen: Verwaltungsgebäude, Züge, etc. Einiges wurde auf einfache, aber völlig zweckmäßige Weise modernisiert. Die Supermärkte sind voll mit den Produkten, die wir in westlichen Ländern auch konsumieren. Kundenorientierung hat bei der Eisenbahn einen höheren Stellenwert bekommen, der Ticketkauf ist kinderleicht. Die wenigen Steckdosen in Zügen wurden für das Smartphonezeitalter vorbereitet, indem einfach Mehrfachsteckdosen drangehängt wurden. Essentiell, denn bei den langen Zugfahrten durch Russlands Weiten würde der Saft ganz sicher ausgehen.
Allerdings fallen mir auch negative Begleiterscheinungen des neuen Russlands auf: Essen in Kantinen wird in Plastikgeschirr ausgereicht – zu Sowjetzeiten wäre das undenkbar gewesen. Städte sind zugeparkt und Marshrutkas nicht mehr bis zum Achsbruch vollbeladen. Die Züge sind zudem nicht mehr so lang: Ein Zug von Vladivostok nach Moskau hat heute manchmal 12 Wagen. Waren es früher nicht 24 Wagen oder so? Und wo sind die Babushkas, die bei den längeren Zughalten ihre frische Ernte aus dem Garten auf dem Bahnsteig anboten?
Ich nähere mich dem Baikalsee, dem weltweit größten Speicher von ungefrorenem Süßwasser. Der Aggregatzustand „ungefroren“ gilt jedoch nur temporär, denn im Winter friert der 670 Kilometer lange und bis zu 1,5 Kilometer tiefe See zu. Von diesem Naturschauspiel bin ich jetzt – im August – noch ein Stückchen entfernt. Richtig warm ist es trotzdem nicht, sondern gerade mal 7-8 Grad. Außerdem regnet es in Strömen. Wegen des miesepetrigen Wetters sehe ich leider wenig. Das Gebiet soll ein wahres Naturparadies, mit viel unberührter Natur, sein. Größere Siedlungen gibt es nur an der Südseite des Baikalsees, dort, wo die Transsibirische Eisenbahn entlang des Ufers verläuft, und ganz im Norden, wo die Baikal-Amur-Magistrale kurz den See tangiert. Ich bin überrascht von dieser Ursprünglichkeit, bin jedoch zeitgleich froh, nicht meinem ursprünglichen Plan gefolgt zu sein. Ich plante zunächst, über die Baikal-Amur-Magistrale kommend am Nordufer aufzuschlagen, um mich dann irgendwie an die Südseite zu hangeln. Doch das „Irgendwie“ hätte vermutlich nicht funktioniert. Es gibt keine Schiffsverbindungen und auch keine Straßen um den See. Wie gut, dass der See nicht in China liegt, denke ich mir. Denn, würde der See in China liegen, würden vermutlich bereits ein Autobahnring und viele Hochhäuser gebaut worden sein. Das Gebiet um den Baikalsee ist vergleichsweise unterentwickelt. Der größte Umweltverschmutzer, eine im Auftrag des Militärs arbeitende Papierfabrik wurde 2013 stillgelegt. Der Schließung gingen massive Proteste von Umweltschützern voraus. Ein Professor aus Irkutsk verrät mir, dass die Manager der Papierfabrik vor der Presse die hochgiftigen Abwässer tranken, um zu demonstrieren, dass die Abwässer unbedenklich sind. Abgesehen von einer am Nordufer verlaufenden Pipeline macht jedoch ein in der Mongolei geplanter Staudamm für ein Wasserkraft sorgen. Durch den Bau des Dammes würde dem Baikalsee der Hahn abgedreht werden.
Auch am nächsten Tag in Irkutsk ist es weiterhin regnerisch und kalt. Ein ausgezeichneter Sonnenschein sind die Menschen – ausgerechnet in Sibirien! Wer hätte das gedacht?Auf dem Markt fragen die Verkäuferinnen und Verkäufer, woher ich komme, lächeln freundlich. Bei dieser Nettigkeit kaufe ich gleich noch ein zweites Glas heimischer Beeren für meine nächste, ca. 28 Stunden lange Zugfahrt.
Eigentlich habe ich damit gerechnet bei den langen Zugfahrten an meinem Blog zu arbeiten und meine Erlebnisse aufzubereiten. Doch dazu komme ich fast gar nicht. Die offenen Abteile im Schlafwagen verwandeln sich in lebendige Wohnzimmer: Es wird gequatscht und gegessen. Auffallend ist, dass die, die gerade keine Lust auf Reden haben, auch mal ein Buch zur Hand nehmen – und nicht sofort zum Smartphone greifen.
Der Zug schleicht durch Sibirien. Die Strecke ist extrem kurvig und könnte mit der Franken-Sachsen-Magistrale zwischen Dresden und Nürnberg mithalten. Ein Wunder ist, dass wir bei diesen niedrigen Geschwindigkeiten riesige Entfernungen überwinden. Doch das tun wir, und zwar pünktlich auf die Minute. Alle vier bis sechs Stunden hält der Zug für etwa 15 bis 30 Minuten, primär um die Funktionalität des Zuges zu prüfen. Im Sommer mögen die Pausen lange vorkommen, doch bei bis zu -30 Grad im Winter gewinnt die Überprüfung der Funktionalität eine andere Bedeutung.
Wahrscheinlich wegen der Sehnsucht nach dem sibirischen Winter sind Russen große Fans von Eiscreme. Bei den Zwischenstopps stürmen die Fahrgäste die Bahnhofskioske und fragen nach Maroshenoje. So unterschiedlich sind die Bedürfnisse: Während Chinesen sich in den Standpausen an ihren Glimmstängeln festhalten, fahren Russen auf Eiscreme ab. Ich übertreibe ein bisschen. Auch Russen rauchen. Doch dieses kollektive Verhalten ist kaum zu übersehen.
Nach spätestens einem Tag kennt sich jeder im Waggon – zumindest vom Sehen. Zugfahren ist in Russland ein soziales Event – im Unterschied zu China, wo ich stets das Gefühl hatte, dass Zugfahren ausschließlich dazu da ist, um von A nach B zu gelangen. Noch etwas fällt auf: Die Fahrgasträume sind auch nach mehreren Tagen Zugfahrt sauber. Fahrgäste und Provodniza/Provodnik (Schaffner) achten stets darauf, dass das Innere des Zuges ansehnlich bleibt. Es handelt sich schließlich um die Wohnzimmer der Fahrgäste.
Nach einem Zwischenstopp in Tomsk verlasse ich Sibirien, mache einen Schlenker durch Kasachstan und bin mit meiner Ankunft in Ufa wieder in Europa. In Ufa erwartete mich mein erster richtiger Sommertag, so wie wir ihn in Europa gewöhnt sind: 30 Grad, blauer Himmel, niedrige Luftfeuchtigkeit. In Ufa treffe ich auch Vera und Lilia wieder, die ich am Baikalsee kennen gelernt habe. In einem abendlichen Spaziergang führen sie mich durch die quirlige Stadt, zeigen mir das Universitätsviertel und ein pompöses Hotel, das für den BRIC-Gipfel 2015 herausgeputzt wurde. An einem Aussichtspunkt lassen wir unsere Blicke über den Belaja-Fluss schweifen, der die Stadt berührt. Bei den sommerlichen Temperaturen kann ich mir kaum vorstellen, dass es im Winter so kalt wird, dass auch dieser große Fluss zufriert.
Nach Moskau sind es 1600 Kilometer – ein Katzensprung. Am nächsten Morgen – wieder auf die Minute genau – rollt mein Schlafwagenzug in Moskau, Kasankij Voksal, ein. Meinen kurzen Moskauaufenthalt möchte ich für einen Rundgang durch Moskaus bzw. Russlands Herz nutzen. Auf dem Roten Platz, dort, wo die hohen Mauern der mächtigen Schaltzentrale Kreml thronen, sich das Mausoleums von Lenin befindet und links die Türmchen der weltbekannten Basilius-Kathedrale aufragen, schließt sich der Kreis meiner großen Asienreise: Hier bin ich vor 5 Jahren bei meiner ersten Russlandreise bereits gewesen. Ich bewege mich nun auf weitgehend bekannten Wegen. Umso bewusster wird nun, dass das Ende meiner Reise naht.
Am späten Nachmittag besteige ich den Nachtzug nach Riga. In der darauffolgenden Nacht erreiche ich die Grenze zu Lettland. Sowohl die russischen Beamten als auch die lettischen sind äußerst freundlich, die Ausreise aus Russland und die Einreise in Lettland läuft reibungslos ab. Der Stempel, den die russische Beamte in meinem Reisepass platziert, wird mit sehr hoher Wahrscheinlichkeit der letzte auf meiner großen Asienreise sein. Ich reise nun innerhalb des Schengenraumes, zu weiteren Personenkontrollen wird es vermutlich nicht kommen. Und damit auch nicht mehr zu den aufregenden Momenten an den Grenzen, in denen ich mich mehrmals leise gefragt habe, ob mein Visum tatsächlich korrekt ist oder ob die Grenzbeamten ein Problem mit den von mir vorher bereisten Ländern haben.
Rückblick
Als ich die Route meiner Asienreise plante, meinte ich noch scherzhaft, dass Russland hinsichtlich der Herzlichkeit der Menschen ein interessanter Kontrast zu der in Südostasien werden würde. Ich nahm an, dass ich in Russland nur ein Bruchteil der menschlichen Wärme empfangen würde. Doch ich habe mich getäuscht – es gibt gar keinen Kontrast. In Russland habe ich eine extra Portion Herzlichkeit erhalten.
Ständig habe ich meine neuen Eindrücke mit meinem China-Aufenthalt verglichen. Ich bin zu folgender Erkenntnis gekommen: Dass ich mich in Russland so wohl fühlte, hängt in gewissem Maße damit zusammen, dass das Reisen in Russland einfacher ist: Russische Städte sind übersichtlich, das öffentliche Leben ist schon alleine wegen der wenigen Menschen entspannter. Angenehm ist zudem, dass öffentliche Bereiche (wie z.B. Bahnhöfe) frei zugänglich sind und nicht aus Sicherheitsgründen sowie zur Lenkung der Menschenmassen gesperrt werden.
Zum Wohlfühlen trug vermutlich auch bei, dass die russische Kultur sehr stark mit unserer verbunden ist – und dennoch Platz für Abenteuer und Neues lässt. Abgesehen von Wodka, was verbinden wir mit russischer Kultur? Ich verbinde damit z.B. den Duft von frischem Dill, der von am Straßenrand sitzenden Heimgärtnern verkauft wird. Frische Tomaten, die im Zug herumgereicht werden. Eingelegte Gurken, großzügige Babushkas sowie endlose Weiten. Genau das konnte ich während meines Russlandaufenthalt intensiv erleben, genießen und gedanklich mit nach Deutschland nehmen.
Lieber Ferry
Ich bin die Kusine deiner Mutter, deine Kusiene 2 Grades, aus Augsburg, aus deiner Roth-Großfamilie. Nachdem du uns gestern am Fest einen Ausschnitt aus deiner Weltreise präsentiert hast, habe ich heute laut deiner Aussage die Seite aufgerufen. Mir war nicht bekannt welch eine Weltreise du vor hattest bzw. gemacht hast. Du bist wie Kilian der Tierreporter aus der ehemaligen DDR, der durch die Welt reist, Tiere und ihre Lebensweise filmt und im TV herzeigt. Du hast etwas wunderbares gemacht, vollbracht. Ich bin sicher die erlebten Eindrücke, Erfahrungen, Sehenswürdigkeiten(die wunderbaren Bauten), die Menschen mit denen du in Kontakt kamst, haben dein Leben, deine Sicht der Welt und der Dinge, um 190° oder sogar um 360° gedreht und verändert. Ich bin sicher, durch diese Weltreise, kannst du bescheiden dein Leben leben, und siehst Dinge aus einer oder mehreren verschiedenen Perspektiven. Was du gesehen und erlebt hast, ist solch eine große Bereicherung, meine ich. Was wir im TV in Berichten sehen, hast du life bzw. live gesehen und erlebt. Sehr beeindruckend. Hauptsache du bist OK und gesund wieder zuhause!
Ich habe eine neue E-Mailadresse, notiere sie dir für den eventuellen Privatverkehr(Familienverkehr)und gib sie auch Gerrit. Tschüs, deine Kusien 2 Grades, Gerti aus Augsburg.
Ich bin beeindruckt, lieber Ferry, von deinem Reisebericht und habe es genossen, ihn zu lesen.
Du hast so schön und informativ geschrieben als sei ich dabei gewesen. Hoffe sehr, dass deine Reiseberichte eines Tages in einem Buch zusammen
gefasst werden. Deine Oma Alice und deine Mama Renate wären sehr stolz auf dich. Almut
Danke, liebe Almut! Freut mich, dass dir der Bericht gefällt. Liebe Grüße, Ferry
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